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DIY - Modification to DL265 and Making Low C.G.

DIY – Modification to DL265 and Making Low C.G.
Speaking of DALRC DL265, most experienced pilots here should remember it. I have been flying a dozen of different models of 250~280 drone. The DL265 got my highest rating – whether from the design, ease of installation, quality, and maintenance (this is particularly important to me).
For newbies, DL265 is definitely the preferred durable drone. I recommended 10 inexperienced friends to buy this drone and they are satisfied with the design and quality especially the protection the main frame can provide for the electronic gear. Their drones are all survive after several crash during the learning and practice period.
Recently I am tired of repairing 210-215 grade racing drones. Every time when the drone crashed, damage would happen. The electronic gear, whether it is receiver, video transmitter, or camera would be broken. Sometimes the crash would even cause the circuit board burnt. As I recalled the good experience with DL265, and still have some used DL265 frame in hand, I decided to use this drone again but trying lower the C.G. that is getting popular today. 
First I made three modifications to the DL265 frame :
1. remove the shock absorption plate of camera mount. The rubber four shock absorber balls are easy to fall off after crash. I suggest to fix the camera direct to the upper plate of the main frame, or using QAV250's camera mount plate.
2. replace the 16 screws used to fix the 8 bolts between main and lower plates with 8 long screws (20mm) which will run through the bolts and secured via screw nuts. This will make the frame more rigid.
3. use heat-shrink tube wrapped around the front end of the frame plates, and leave about 5mm space filled with 704 silicone rubber adhesive sealant glue. Once the glue dried out, the front of the frame become elastic and very crashworthy.

The picture above shows the elastic front end using heat-shrink tube filled with 704 silicone sealant glue.

This is the picture of 20mm long screw and nut.

The frame before I changed the power gear are shown in the above two pictures. You may notice I hold the original frame upside down. This is because I was going to modify the rotor direction so the drone will fly in this posture with the battery and camera below the arms thus lower the C.G. And flight controller will be above the main plate.

Those ESCs are fixed on the arms. I wrapped up all ESCs to give further protection from being hit in case the propellers deform for some reasons. This might affect heat dissipation a bit but could save you the cost of replacing the ESC.

I drilled two new holes on the main plate in addition to the two pre-drilled holes (but need to be enlarged a bit). Thus I can move the power distribution board backward. This will leave more space for flight controller to be installed in front of the power distribution board.

Put on the upper plate (was lower plate originally) after installation of flight controller.

Camera is installed through the original plastic mount but directly attached to the main frame plate. The battery will be put on the back of the camera. You will see the C.G. shall be way below the arms.


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After the completion of my modification, the drone now turn into reverse attitude completely. Furthermore, the battery and its cable are now all beneath the propellers. I don't worry anymore that battery could be hit by the propellers. What a relief!

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